At Nai Harn Beach
Open time: Daily 6.30am-11pm
Resevation: Tel: 0 7638 0200www.thenaiharn.com
Fresh and contemporary dining concepts combine with a stunning seaside location to inspiring effect at The Nai Harn.
Cosmo offers a unique gastronomic experience in a paradisal setting. The flagship restaurant of the iconic Nai Harn, it occupies one of Phuket’s most coveted locations, a promontory flanking Nai Harn Bay. Featuring grey furnishings and geometric white décor, the dining area exudes space and airiness. Immediately below us, the sandy beach is framed by jagged rocks.
Executive Chef Mark Jones carefully explains the new menu. Recently appointed and with an impressive CV in high-end catering, he is rightly enthusiastic about a cuisine which reflects his passion both for global travel and culinary innovation. We begin in Northern Japan. Mark’s choice of appetiser is pan-fried Hokkaido scallops with apple ginger, and crispy coppa ham. The juicy shellfish are lightly seared, their succulence complemented by a delicate echo of apple. The main course, again ocean inspired, accentuates the Andaman Sea: moist White snapper steak, and matching croquette.
Other chef’s recommendations reveal a capacity for adventurous combinations. Marinated raw sea bass comes with pomelo, coriander, chili lemon, ginger and lotus root; Seared yellow fin tuna with greens, avocado, watermelon and ponzu citrus dressing. A Mixed grill of Andaman seafood includes the local catch of the day. Char-grilled cauliflower provides an inventive vegetarian option. For carnivores, Australian rib-eye steak with rissole potatoes and oyster mushrooms, rocket, asparagus, garlic and Béarnaise sauce admirably fits the bill. There are artisanal ice creams inspired by local fruits, and crisp organic salads.
The attention to detail is exceptional. Nothing is too much trouble. Every dish is accompanied by exquisitely chosen vegetables and herbs with matching sauces and dips. Ingredients are ultra-fresh. Most of the seafood is purchased twice daily from Rawai fish market, and there is a stress on local, organic produce. The wide-ranging meats are created in the resort’s own charcuterie, even down to regional sausages.